Wellington build and re-build

[Steve Vodrey]

I already have a thing about twins and a while ago had taken to the Tony Nijhuis design Wellington (13 foot) having seen one owned by Tony Hooper (IC) and another owned by Tony Hill (electric). This is available as a CNC cut kit available through SLEC.
I had a pair of suitable Zenoahs to spare from a similar sized twin which had been good runners.
Before long Ian Redshaw had fixed me up with a partially started kit and I got the retracts ordered from unitracts.
After leaving everything lying around for a couple of years (others have waited longer) I recently set about getting on with it.
The basic fuz frame had been started and was very flimsy but this was soon sorted out when the planking went on. This seemed to take ages and I was reminded how long it takes to build a model from scratch. Something I haven't done for about 10 years.

Starting the planking.

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taking shape

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The model didn't come with any wing tubes so I rooted out some standard waste pipe and an aerial pole from B&Q which are a crack on fit for nominal cost. Looking at the second pic the wing tubes look out of line but sliding a wing rib on each side made the line up look about right.
Next thing to line up was the tail which at the time I needed to be removable. On the plan the tail is supported by a rectangular vertical spar and a carbon fibre rod. These slide through the fuz (see next pic) and once again of course have to be lined up. I have to confess to being a bit lost at this point so rather than make a mess of it I put the fuz in the too difficult tray for a while to make a start on the wings.

tail support

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If there's anything I hate it's cutting out wing ribs of different sizes so to pop them out from a pre cut sheet is bliss. The basic frame is easy enough to do and soon takes shape.
The ribs are only cut from lite ply and quite bendy hence the temporary spruce strips to keep em straight.

basic frame

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To sheet the upper surface I used the trusted cellotape hinge method to make an enormous width of 3/32 balsa which I stuck on in one piece. The end result is step free and needs very little sanding.

Completed planking sheet

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Sheeted wing

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I just did the frame for the other wing so I might have something to put together in a couple of days.
Both wings done now but only sheeted on top surface so far.
The next dilemma was whether to build flaps in or not. Tony Hooper didn't bother and for that matter neither did Tony Nijhuis.
Following representations from numerous it looks like I will have to build em. Research shows the flaps to be split and running full length from the fuz to just short of the aileron.
Looks like I will end up doing em as it's obviously easier to do it now...

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[Seamus O'Donnell]

Will be watching this one as it is on my to build list

[Mike Booth]

Steve I'd definitely go for flaps while you can.
That way it'll be a real bomber, you'll be able to vary the approach to suit conditions and land where you want, rather than waiting for a long glide to finish.
Generally you will have far more control over the thing.

[Steve Vodrey]

Wings fitted

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Thanks Mike. Looks like that is the general opinion. Better too for a short landing strip.
I will make the effort.
Man flu prevented weekend progress but I did manage last week to get some idea of progress by sliding the wings on.

[Steve Vodrey]

Building flaps took longer than expected. What else is there to do though this weather?

on the bench

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It seems to look about right.

on the model

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At 37 inches long I reckon each one will take two servos. The flap is a bit bendy anyway.
Seems like an ideal time to glue the wing tubes in position before sheeting the underside.
Note the deliberate mistake with the inboard servo position...

inboard servo position

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Should create plenty of drag. What do you reckon Crusty?

both flaps deployed

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[Nick Reeves 3055]

this is just the thread ive been waiting for!!! have been longing to build the welly but now it looks a lot more achieveable. did you cut the flaps out of the ribs once the wing was built?

[Steve Vodrey]

Hi Nick.
Good to know all this typing is of some use.
Anyone else should feel free to comment. Good or bad. I'm open to suggestions to make things better.
To make up the flaps I had to add another spar made from a strip of 10mm balsa to the wing on which to hinge the flap and then cut out some off the trailing ribs.
The flap is made seperately from a length of 3mm lite ply. Another strip of 10mm balsa along the hinged edge. The little ribs on it are small cuts of 3mm birch ply.
The underside is still to be sheeted.after I re-position the inboard flap servo and come up with a decent method to stop the wing panels sliding off. Not too keen on screwing a bolt into the wing tubes...

[Karl mander]

Ayup-

You seem to be quite good at this model building, you should do it more often!

[Dave Parry]

Steve, I wouldn't want you to waste all that typing, so why don't you do a build article for the Journal I am sure it would be of interest to the members old and new. it is looking great keep up the good work.

[Peter Siggins]

hello Steve
i have sent you an email - re drilling tubes.Have to agree with Karl you should build more - looking good
all the best Pete

[Peter Siggins]

hello Steve
i have sent you an email - re drilling tubes.Have to agree with Karl you should build more - looking good
all the best Pete

[John Greenfield]

Steve

If you want to stop the back edge of the flap distorting glue a piece of 3mm carbon rod along the trailing edge. It can be attached with thick cyno and then filed in with lightweight filler. The rod will support the wood and stop id going out of line. don't forget to cut 3mm off the flap first or it will be too big !?

John

[Steve Vodrey]

Thanks John. Great suggestion.
I'll do that.

Steve

[Steve Vodrey]

Speaking of how to hold the wings in I opted to fit some tabs to the end of the panel.

wing tabs

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The idea being to slide these into the fuz

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Then they can be braced together using some lightweight bolts.

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Wings are sheeted now on the underside so time to move onto the nacelles or tail feathers...

[paul needham]

Hi Steve, The Wellington is looking good, if its any help, regarding the wing fixing, my wellington (don't know who built it) has tabes much the same as you have put on your wings then uses a nylon cable tie to hold them from sliding out.

[Steve Vodrey]

Thanks Paul.
All I need to do is hold them together. Probably go for a length of plywood and some plastic bolts with thumb nuts.
Anyway moving onto the tail. It goes together quite easily. Once again the ribs were crack on.

half tail

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The wing is quite a size slid together.

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The main strength in the nacelle is the ply sides and firewall. These fit in the gap and engage on the main spars.
I use the method shown to line em up vertically so the down thrust is the same. Get this out and your twin will roll quite nicely all on it's own.

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Next to line up for side thrust. I suppose we all have our way of doing this so I might get some comments.We all introduce right thrust to make up for the prop rotation over the tail feathers. This is fine on the starboard engine but creates an adverse problem on the port engine if it's left running on its own. Fot that reason I opt to keep the port engine straight ahead.
Like I say comments please...
I did the adjustments at this stage to hopefully avoid packing the engines out from the firewalls although looking at the photo now it looks like I need more right thrust on the starboard side.

[Rob Buckley]

Steve,

That looks like it's coming along nicely & the flaps look like a good idea.

For the side thrust, some say that having both engines toeing out by a couple of degrees helps to counteract assymetric thrust in an engine out situation.

In other news, if anybody's read this thread and fancies having a go at a build of one of these Wellington kits on a sub-contract basis, give me a call or an email.

[Steve Vodrey]

Tail frame is fairly simple really and encouraging as the model looks closer to being finished.

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Back to the nacelles I made the effort to make a well for the wheels to go into so the mud would be contained somewhere. Simple enough job but seemed to take me ages to do.

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These units from unitracts really are the business.
The wheels are Dubro from the States which I had to bail out from customs...

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Sadly though, halfway through the build I bought the below which is almost complete so I'm moving over to that for a while as it wil soon be ready to fly.

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[Steve Vodrey]

Well just to finish off for now.
Here is the present state of the build.

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[ian redshaw]

Looking good Vod, non too shabby mate. It's great you fitted the flaps, if the real one had them and all that. I still need to pick them wheels up too!

Ian.