Turned out to be a gasket problem not sealing the carb to the engine, allowing air in, made up some new gaskets and it's running well now with a steady low tickover, now if I could just find a way to cheaply quieten it down it would be a good engine.

I've acquired a model with an old Kalt 22cc (basically a Zenoah 23cc magneto) petrol engine, initially it wouldn't run so I replaced the rubber bits in the Walbro carb (WT705), it runs now but I can't slow it down. As I reduce the throttle the engine revs drop to just under 3,000 rpm, but then reduc...

Ref the requirement for data loggers in over 25kg models, here's two units I've used previously that will satisfy the requirements, the SM Modelbau GPS logger https://www.sm-modellbau.de/GPS-Logger-3 and Aerobtec Altis GPS unit https://aerobtec.com/altis-gps/ both units will log the full flight path...

Yep, plus one for that.

Just finishing a model covered in Diacov and painted with automotive cellulose paint (sprayed), 2 stroke petrol powered, will be using 35/40:1 synthetic oil.
Will it need fuel proofing and if so what's recommended. Thanks

While a separate UC battery is a good safe guard, check your electric retracts a lot of them have built in stall protection to prevent the power supply being continuously discharged.

Well after a 4 year build period my clubmate Dave Keens 28% scale FW190 was finally maidened in Steve Hollands capable thumbs and here's the video proof, https://youtu.be/mIz0FcpzGBU Model was built from a Belair plan pack, powered by a Moki 215cc and controlled by a Multiplex Royal Sx 16 with Savox...

Well red faced , after much checking and a carb rebuild, the culprit was a kink in the fuel feed line......................

Now ticks over at 900rpm with clean pick up to 4,000 rpm on a 32 x 14 3 blade prop running on 40:1 synthetic.

Thanks for all the suggestions, we checked the pulse line and it looked clear. Tried it again today with both needles opened 1/8th of a turn but it was just the same. It's definitely fuel starvation so next job is get the engine out and give the carb a service.

Just before Covid my mate had his Moki 215cc (5 cylinder 4 stroke) run up on a test stand, it ran really well. Now 3 years later it's installed in the model and we fired it up for the first time today, E10 petrol with deluxe materials 2T synthetic oil at 32:1, after getting the fuel through it would...

Ken, all received, many thanks.

We have a G38 that needs quieting down a bit, anybody know where we could get the plans/dimensions of the Sid King exhaust. Thanks

Really really sad, I had only ever met Ron at the Cheddar events, lovely guy.

Stuart, OK the other option would be to use an Ardunio and use that to control a servo, but that would need you to build and program a system, there a few examples on the web, i.e. https://www.instructables.com/id/Temper ... nd-Servos/

Only just seen this, but what radio system do you use? several have telemetry temperature sensor feedback which can be used to operate a channel, so you could have automatic operation using a servo via a spare channel on your transmitter.

Alan thanks, we'd come to the same conclusion and have just received a hitec winch servo, this is 3.5 turns so with the standard pulley has around 10" of movement. We'll be able to put in a bit of slack and set it up so that by increasing the "throw" we can slide the canopy back off i...

Looking to activate a canopy opening and a commercial linear actuator is going to be a bit too long to fit in easily. One option would be to convert a servo to drive a threaded bar with end stop microswitches, similar to an electric retract. Anybody done this?

Thanks, that's what I thought but wanted to confirm before I build the tank support.

Just finalising the tank position in a new model, NGH38cc FS with Walbro carb. Best place for tank is with tank center line about 40mm above the carb center line. I understand that tank position isn't critical with a Walbro carb, so having the tank higher than the carb shouldn't be a problem, is tha...

Glenn, not used an Igyro 3e, but how do you know the knob is not adjusting the gain, do you have the gyro gain displayed somewhere?