Large Model Association Forum

It's not quite going to plan on the plumbing side due to the required part is not available :( Getting back to the topic, it will be easier if if the opening depends on how much above the set temperature that the sensor is:) Working on about 100 degrees of servo travel then I can scale 50 degrees ab...

Work on this is on hold for a few days due to having to urgently relocate some plumbing and electrical stuff in the house
Normal service should resume at the weekend once finished:)

The new code works on how any degrees above the set temperature to control the amount of opening of the flaps, the sensor that I am working with has a max rating of 125C. I may need to change to a higher rated sensor but at 200C solder begins to melt :( The current sensor costs £1 for 5, the higher ...

The twin Mustang was one of them https://aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/12979/why-did-upward-turning-propellers-in-the-f-82-twin-mustang-cause-a-loss-of-lift Edit, I was told by the crew of an A400 that the contra arrangement of the engines produced more lift. So the other way around would pro...

Try both options as one may work better. There was at least one full size aircraft that flew poorly until they swapped the engines over and then it flew like a dream.

Today's added feature is some spark suppression on the wires to the temperature sensor that will be in a very sparky area, something with the complicated sounding name of a "Common Mode Choke". What it actual does is if a spark puts a spike on both wires like ____|____ then it turns one up...

All functions are now working :) Adding the LCD display made it run dog slow with the servo ticking 1 degree per second, operating an override switch gave an instant full open but requiring a full minute to return to the prior position so I will not include an optional temperature display in the cur...

Youtube just gave me this video that may be helpful https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8OmJISrSo-Q

I put the circuit together on a breadboard today with an Arduino nano, connected everything and started testing, it almost worked as advertised except for the override switches (a coding error), and the face palm after an hour of trying to get the servo to move due to not having the power to it turn...

I have added reverse polarity protection, not to servos connected but only to the unit it's self. The unit will use standard 3 pin RC connectors so this is unlikely to happen, but at a cost of 3p per unit I thought it worth including :) Should the flight battery have the plug on it the wrong way aro...

I have added 2 self resetting fuses, one on the thermistor temperature sensor so that it will disconnect if the connection to it shorts out and trigger the flaps to open fully, the other is on the supply to the unit so that if something goes wrong it will not flatten the flight battery, the flaps wi...

Servo jitter can be caused by the potentiometer in the servo.

I will forget about the bang bang option :) I am currently trying to make it fail safe, if the temperature sensor breaks or shorts out then the flaps need to open fully and not close :) Since I will get quite a few circuit boards for $2 plus postage I want to get all the needed features built into i...

Now edit your post to remove your address
For such things it is better to use a Private Message, click on their name and follow your nose

I have almost got the code finished, of course when I test it there will be something wrong in several places lol At the moment the code will slowly open the grill / flaps to match the temperature of the sensor until they are fully open, the other option is Bang Bang where they stay closed until the...

As previously mentioned there will be an option to plug in an external switch that will switch between auto and fully open

I have been looking at this from the wrong direction by trying to control a servo and adjust it to the temperature :( It becomes easier if it measures the temperature and adjusts the servo, if lower that the set temperature move the servo a notch in the closed direction, if higher than the set tempe...

I thought an adjustment for temperature would be easier than removing the prop, removing the cowl, move the sensor, refit cowl, and refit the prop

I have just realised that the temperature adjuster needs to be not on the PCB but mountable somewhere where it can be adjusted with a screwdriver wings on and engine running

Try http://www.vortex-vacforms.co.uk/canopies.htm
and
https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product-category/model-aircraft-builder/accessories-model-aircraft-builder/canopies/