Thanks Matt...You could always do an 'Executive fit' Spitfire next?

Thanks David, I hope it works out for you!

I first used card strips to build an outline of the side wall to be lined in leather. image.jpg And then used this pattern to cut out a thin card stiffening plate and the leather. The leather is cut about 1/2" oversized. image.jpg I then used an automotive fabric trim adhesive which is applied ...

The lower side walls of the full size are lined in leather. I thought long and hard about how best to replicate leather, but none of my ideas were really going to work well enough! Thee was only one thing for it...leather. I found a company called Pittards who sell leather hides in all kinds of grad...

In order to finish off the fuselage sheeting I need to get the cockpit and cabin detailing done. I have decided to fit out the whole cabin as best I can because those windows are so large I would rather not just see balsa in there! First up is the upper sides of the cabin. On the full size these are...

Over the past few weeks I have managed to go the last of the rib tapes applied and the final coats of dope on. In total, over the Diatex, I have 2 coats of dope brushed on and 3 coats sprayed on. The weave is mostly filled (more importantly there are no pin holes) and the fabric is drum tight and wa...

Thanks Dave,

It's always nice to know everyone is enjoying reading it.

That's all I'll get done in August...what with a busy work roster, Elvington and Winterton show and then a two week family holiday....things will resume in Sept!

In between playing around with rib tapes, I have been slowly getting the large 'trousers' mounted. Quite a tricky affair, but I think I am about there now. IMG_5118.JPG I'll need to look at baffles next, but should be plenty of cooling. IMG_5119.JPG I have made some catches for the opening hatches. ...

Hopefully this looks a little bit better!

I made a start on the rib tapes the other day. I think this is a common system for making rib tapes and certainly not my idea, it is very good though. A basic jig is made using pins, or nails into a flat board. Lay a sheet of paper, not too thick, and wrap your chosen string, cotton whatever around ...

Thanks guys. I'm all sorted for screws now!

Ha, yes it says it on the tin, but not on the description on the Website!! It'll make no difference to the finish!

Thanks Nigel, Paul.

I have just secured some from Macc Model Engineers!

I have finished off the basic fabric covering on the wings and control surfaces. The smaller parts where a bit of a fiddle, but clothes pegs helped to keep the fabric in place until the cement grabbed (30 secs). I quite like knowing that the fabric has been applied to scale too! IMG_5038.JPG IMG_503...

The first 'final version' cowl is now out the moulds. I've started trimming it to fit but not fixed it into place yet. IMG_5048.JPG The hinge was obtained from Phil at Fighteraces and does a great job. At the moment I have used Mick Reeves's tiny counter sunk screws to hold it in place. I may have t...

Thanks Stuart. Yes, I always use no shrinking dope, despite its name, it will still shrink a bit....just hopefully not enough to warp the structure....the covering should still go nice and tight though. I would suggest not using a heat gun though. All heat shrink fabrics have a maximum temperature (...

The cowl hatch is again 2 layers of 160g and 2 of 200g but it also has a layer of thin acetate sheet to create a smooth internal finish. This gives me something that I can then mould a lip onto...... Once dry I trimmed to shape, covered the edges in thin sellotape and then gave the sellotape a coupl...

I have also begun the layup of the actual spats/cowls...... Starting with the opening cowling hatch.....before anyone points it out, I've cheated slightly with the size of this and made it a bit smaller. The Dragonfly actually has an unusual arrangement whereby the split of the cowl is right down th...

The nose mould has been finished too and a final moulds taken from it (again 2 layers of 160g and 2 of 200g cloth).



My little helper popped in too....and found a new use for the mould!!!

The tail cone popped out the mould earlier! 2 layers of 160g cloth will be plenty and keep it nice and light. image.jpg I also made the first undercarriage spat. This one will not be used ultimately but serves to test the strength of my layup (2 layers of 160g gram cloth and 2 layers of 200g cloth) ...

I'll give that a go next time....though I bet they are using better quality fiberglass cloth than me!

Err...your Logo was going to go on the bottom....somewhere!

With the (slightly!) warmer weather we've been having recently I decided to get the moulds laid up for the wheel spats, tail cone and nose cone. The plugs have been finished a few months now to give them time to properly harden. I'm not sure what I did wrong last time I made moulds but they stuck li...