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Exhaust help using gas canisters

Posted: July 11th, 2012, 8:12 pm
by Simon Willey
I am sure I read an artical using gas canisters for exhausts. I want to use them on the DLE111 that is mounted in the Wren. I have made some headers from 25mm flex pipe that go into the fuz.I will wrap this in heatproof insulation as per the original . I know want to make some silencers to fit inside the fuz out of site ,with the outlets under the fuz.The the gas canister idea would seam to be a good a good way to go, and I have some in stock
Has anyone got and info on making them, quite is my goal.
Thanks
Simon

Re: Exhaust help using gas canisters

Posted: July 11th, 2012, 11:33 pm
by Peter Clare
See ' Help required making 50cc silencer ' by Paul Hill on page 2 of Technical Help of this forum. Chris Lane provides details of a download from Model Engineer 15th March 1956. Excellent starting point ! My effort was made ( from the next door neighbour's rotating washing pole) approximating Fig 3 of the ME article. Got a screaming DLE 20cc down to 82 DbA and was simple to make up. Key issue is large capacity expansion box - Five times cylinder capacity is recommended if sufficient space is available. Peter Clare

Re: Exhaust help using gas canisters

Posted: July 12th, 2012, 2:01 pm
by Bob Thompson1894
One of the German teams who came to Goosedale in the nineties used Gaz canisters to great effect. The idea was to get two, solder or braze them together at the bases, first drilling holes in the concave bottoms. These were then soldered together so that the holes did not line up, making a baffle. An inlet and outlet are then all that is needed. Together with carbon three blade props, these were quieter than electric.

Re: Exhaust help using gas canisters

Posted: July 12th, 2012, 3:49 pm
by Simon Willey
Bob Thompson1894 wrote:One of the German teams who came to Goosedale in the nineties used Gaz canisters to great effect. The idea was to get two, solder or braze them together at the bases, first drilling holes in the concave bottoms. These were then soldered together so that the holes did not line up, making a baffle. An inlet and outlet are then all that is needed. Together with carbon three blade props, these were quieter than electric.


That is what I intended to do Bob, so I might just carry on with that idea.

Simon