Large Model Association Forum

Hi all

i manage to get hold of a moki 76cc engine for a small some of cash?

just wondering what size airframe it would fit?

Doorstop.

Now thats Funny

But lets get serious for a sec

what scale would this suit?

came with 26 x 10 prop,

Ken is being more than serious here, I bought a model with a Moki 75 in and it was the nastiest running engine I have ever had. Very bad for overheating and vibration, could only get it reliable if detuned to about 60%. I would only fit it on an uncowled airframe just to keep an eye on it!!!

Ian.

thanks for the advice

i get the feeling that certain moki's are not like or just had bad times,

i will bench run first and set up, just got to drill out the prop

i will video it as well running?

the only thing which size of airframe would you fit it to

Wingspan and/or scale some ideas please

i was thing a large scale harvard at6 texan

Richard, read Ians post again and then look at a Harvard......

i read red the post bob, and look at the ziroli at6 texan

the cowl is semi open cowl with a lol of airflow requires a 62cc @100in but 75cc will give it a little kick

the issues of cooling might be an issue, but the airframe the moki came from was enclosed, Colin the previous owner had no issues, will have to test it first, as he sent it tested and run with a very nice pitts twin exhaust,

like i said i will have to bench test first, before committing airframe suicide

if any one wants to swap for brand new z62 with cdi, or a dle 60/eme 61cc with pitts

i will discuss

What airframe did it come out of? It'll fly one about that big (providing it flew!)

quote from previous owner - COLIN

"The Moki was in a yak type of airframe.. ARTF.. had it a while but didn’t appeal to me.. aerobatics aren’t my thing! More into scale!.. I was keeping it for the ¼ scale P51 but the guy who bought it had a DA 85 so did not take it"

You've got a greenly haven't you Richard ? Hang it on the front of that if anything.

paul needham wrote:You've got a greenly haven't you Richard ? Hang it on the front of that if anything.

greenly part built so yea that's an idea i am building the 50-70cc version but at present on the shelf

need to finish other projects like the T180, the 240 is still in its box,

i am on the look out for a high wing, cessna style PNF airframe

The only airframe I would put one into is a glider, as ballast!

Ken Bones wrote:The only airframe I would put one into is a glider, as ballast!

have to LOL at that

nice one

Here Here.....definately worst engine ive ever tried, as ian says bad for overheating due to design and very small cooling fins, rings tend to sieze up from heat,carb was always in need of tuning to get half decent power,i tried two and worst bit was i bought a second one.....!

Andy Macqueen wrote:Here Here.....definately worst engine ive ever tried, as ian says bad for overheating due to design and very small cooling fins, rings tend to sieze up from heat,carb was always in need of tuning to get half decent power,i tried two and worst bit was i bought the second one.....!

o well, just wasted 230 notes, then! if every one going to slate it, al i can do is try it and learn from it, i might do what paul needam said stick it on a the front of a greenly

just put it in something that will glide really well when it cuts out.........

Hang on . . all might not be lost - I have had experience trying to get one of these motors to behave itself, and after much gnashing of teeth I found the culprit to be a design shortcoming in that Moki, in their wisdom decided to stick the ignition pick-up on the back of the crankcase. The ignition magnet is set into the rear of the crankshaft and the pick-up sticks through the rear case to sense the pulse . . The problem is that the two are perilously close together and any crankshaft end float causes the pick-up to be shoved out of its position and then it starts to let air in (especially if a starter is used) This causes the erratic running and overheating. I found the solution was to bury the pick-up in good quality silicone to seal things up. Good ducting is a must as it has indeed got meagre finning, but I did get mine to run ok. It'll never be a 3W though !

Glenn Masters wrote:Hang on . . all might not be lost - I have had experience trying to get one of these motors to behave itself, and after much gnashing of teeth I found the culprit to be a design shortcoming in that Moki, in their wisdom decided to stick the ignition pick-up on the back of the crankcase. The ignition magnet is set into the rear of the crankshaft and the pick-up sticks through the rear case to sense the pulse . . The problem is that the two are perilously close together and any crankshaft end float causes the pick-up to be shoved out of its position and then it starts to let air in (especially if a starter is used) This causes the erratic running and overheating. I found the solution was to bury the pick-up in good quality silicone to seal things up. Good ducting is a must as it has indeed got meagre finning, but I did get mine to run ok. It'll never be a 3W though !

thanks glenn

any chance i could give this to you to solve, the timing cable (grey, hall sensor type,) comes out of the back but no sealant, or can this be done at the field

i know it will never be a 3w, but i do want it to run right and not have to fart about with it set it up and leave it, and only tweak it occasionally,

the airframe i had in mind is a Cessna 182, 26%, when i brought it?

Sorry - cant get time on my own modelling projects just now. Try it first - it might be ok !

you walked into that one Glenn.
well dodged! lol