Large Model Association Forum

hi all

i have a moki 30cc with a bell engine mount, Spoken to steve mackay about replacing the back plate but this engine has been out of production for 15 years?

so, would like to ask if one of the many engineers could help me ? i have a lathe but this beyond my scope of knowledge and no milling machine

what i would like to is either to have the back plate remade or the bell mount milled down to accommodate a beam mount, and remove as much of the bell without compromising the back plate

also with the bell mount in place i cannot fit a pitts exhaust

what would it cost to have a back plate made ? or mill down bell mount

alternative if anyone has a moki 30cc (180) engine as spares or repairs could they please let me know?

all advice welcome!

Well, the beam mounts are there on the crankcase, so being a heathen, if twer mine I would attack the bell mount with a hacksaw and an angle grinder (Both precision tools in my workshop) and separate mount from back plate and Roberts your fathers brother.
Probaby wont be pretty so make sure that there's no other way to use the existing mount.

Proper Engineers will be shaking their collective heads at this point.

i did think of what u suggesting Stuart, but i want it done correctly as with the mount the engine is too long for cowl and the mount will not fit the firewall, without causing too much hassle to change firewall and a major mod of the front end

simple route in this case back plate to be milled allowing beam mount at present it far too long and a pain in the rectum, trying to use what i have in stock and not purchase a 26cc for the extra 260 i am refurbishing

You need a simple backplate turning, i cant help, i am not in work at the moment, being off sick,but its a simple enough job for any machinist we have in the ranks, i would not destroy the backplate mag, once its gone, it cannot be replaced

Alan Cantwell 1131 wrote:You need a simple backplate turning, i cant help, i am not in work at the moment, being off sick,but its a simple enough job for any machinist we have in the ranks, i would not destroy the backplate mag, once its gone, it cannot be replaced

sorry to here you are sick alan, i am in no hurry, but if anyone can help, that would be great!

What model is this for Richard? It seems to me that if the mount is too big for the firewall then the engine is too big for the model.

Had many instances Paul, of the super tigre 3000 series being to big physically, with the radial mount on, but fitted great wirh the backplate fitted

Just hacksaw off the bits you don't like the look of and file it to look pretty again. If you're keen to do it properly, you could even take it off the engine first!

Don't forget that there's a boss cast into the backplate which is blind drilled for the Hall sensor which is epoxied in. The latter is triggered from the crankpin just the other side of the aluminium. If you make a 'standard' backplate you will have to make alternative provision for triggering the HT.

Dave Berry 2911 wrote:Don't forget that there's a boss cast into the backplate which is blind drilled for the Hall sensor which is epoxied in. The latter is triggered from the crankpin just the other side of the aluminium. If you make a 'standard' backplate you will have to make alternative provision for triggering the HT.

hi dave, thanks for the input

hence why i need someone to do this properly and not just hack at it, as for the ht lead and i did thing of doing to mod for a hall censer and magnet on the prop drive, and update the moki CDI to a RXECL CDI unit i have spare that was one option i had in mind but i just want to keep it simple

but i what just thinking of just milling the bell mount down, but i don;t have a mill

as for the engine not fitting if the bell mount was not there it would fit perfect and mount lovley on a 150 beam mount

airframe 26 - 30cc extra 260 70",

Hi all first time on this forum, it looks a simple enough job you could simply do it in the lathe if you only need to take it down to the original bolt holes you could use 3 or 4 jaw chuck use aluminium shims to protect use a parting tool to remove most of the material and finish off with a cutting tool flush to the desired depth, I hope this helps
Regards
Ross

Rosario Iannotti wrote:Hi all first time on this forum, it looks a simple enough job you could simply do it in the lathe if you only need to take it down to the original bolt holes you could use 3 or 4 jaw chuck use aluminium shims to protect use a parting tool to remove most of the material and finish off with a cutting tool flush to the desired depth, I hope this helps
Regards
Ross

thanks rosario

but my skills with a lathe are basic at best i prefer a PRO engineer do the job i really dont want an half baked cock up of a mess.

so over to the engineers i was hoping dave from kingfisher was about dont have his contact details?

Richard,
Have a look in the 'member services' section of the journal. There is a guy in there offering machining skills. Might be worth a chat with him??

stuart knowles 1611 wrote:Richard,
Have a look in the 'member services' section of the journal. There is a guy in there offering machining skills. Might be worth a chat with him??

thanks Stu

Ok, if the pickup sensor comes off send it to me mark how much you want off and I'll do it for yo
Cheers
Ross

moki engines have the sensor inboard see pics, not sure if they are fixed to the back plate ?

Ok that's fine, just take the backplate off remember original orientation so your timing is right mark how much you need taking off and I will do it for you.
Cheers
Ross

Rosario Iannotti wrote:Ok that's fine, just take the backplate off remember original orientation so your timing is right mark how much you need taking off and I will do it for you.
Cheers
Ross

i will be in touch ross shortly

Sorry I haven't introduced my self well you know my name I am member of DDMFC and Neil Dixon being our chairman also member of the LMA I have been club member for the last 15 years sorry but I thought I should have done this before I made any comments on the website
Regards
Ross