Finishing large models

[Joshua Henderson]

Hi everyone,
As some of you may of seen under new projects my zirolli Dc3 is progressing nicely.


I'm now looking towards finishing the model.

I'm aware a lot of models are glass clothed, and epoxy resined..

Couple of questions, what is the best weight glass to use?

Also what is the best resin/adhesive?

I have experience of zap finishing resin, however it stinks and costs a fortune for small bottles.


I've been looking at skin crylic/ eze cote aswell.


Any other/ better suggestions?

I'm wanting to detail the model ie rivets etc and most likely it'll be sprayed in flair spectum paint?


I'm all ears on any good suggestions.


Thanks
Josh

[Mike altham]

Hi mate,

On the nimrod and I know quite a few other people have used g4 pond sealer.

This is good as it works out cheaper than resin and it does not need mixing. You can use it straight from the can. Also if you still have some left over you can put it back in the can so no waste.

Also dependant on weather it can set within an hour so working time is quicker getting parts finished.

I know other people do not like it and prefer epoxy resin.
Mike

[Joshua Henderson]

Hi mike

Thanks for the response.

I'll do some research into it.

Where did you get yours from for the nimrod?

Thankyou
Josh

[David Jones]

Hi Joshua, we've found the best glass cloth to use is 50 gram. Having said that, buying cloth and resin through modelling circles is quite expensive. We found a source for cloth and resin at a firm called Glassplies, they have branches around the country (we went to Southport). We bought a 25 metre roll of 70gram cloth (the lightest they do) for under £30. So far it's covered a Ziroli Dak, a Ziroli Mitchel and an Apache Chipmunk fuselage, and we still have 8 sq metres left. The "thin" two part resin they sell is also cheap, but a bit industrial, and really only good enough for the initial coat, you could then finish the model with a better quality / more expensive resin for easier sanding. As Mike has mentioned, pond sealer is quite popular and we have been toying with the idea of trying it ourselves.

As far as paint goes, using Flair enamel on a large model could work out costly. We've started using automotive matt Base Coat which you can get from any car paint supplier. It sprays on really well and they will mix any shade of colour you want. We finish with a coat of matt laquer which gives a nice semi satin shean finish and is totaly fuel proof. Hope this helps. Jonesey.

[Karl mander]

Hi
Just to throw another idea into the pot I prefer to use Ronseal floor varnish.
I have used pond sealer and obtained great results however it upset my chest and apparently there are health implications with the vapours(I'm no expert, just what I heard, I may be completely wrong), I only have one set of lungs!
varnish is not as strong, however I've covered all my large models in it, the bear looks good, but its water based so less nasty vapour.

Just my thoughts.

Karl

[richard armstrong]

just out of curiosity how do you use pond sealer? with cloth, that's a new to me, i have my reed falcoln to cover, i just was wondering how to use G4 pond sealer

[arthur barlow]

just out of curiosity how do you use pond sealer? with cloth, that's a new to me, i have my reed falcoln to cover, i just was wondering how to use G4 pond sealer

you can used g4 and cloth if it sheeted or you code us full size covering that you dope on and shrink while an iron if it open stricter?

[richard armstrong]

thanks arthur

i think i might try this on the the large beaver i am refurbing , as this is all closed structure

what weight of cloth do i need?

[Joshua Henderson]

Thanks for the suggestions and help gents


Much appreciated.