Large Model Association Forum

I was just wondering what glues most builders like to use here in the uk.

I'm thinking of building a 1:5 scale spitfire.

I'm just not sure what the best glue is to use in different spots. Like CA, Carpenters, Gorrilla, Etc.

Have you found in certain areas or certain tasks its better to use a differnt glue them other area because of working time?

Or does anyone just like a certain type of glue better for all areas of the build?

Any feedback would be great.

Thanks

Ben

Hi Ben
i learned the hard way lol
I lost a ziroli dc3 by using CA to build it.It had some how crumbled the wood, so the thing fell to bits before i could finish it,
so am now building a new dc3 by using Wood glue, it does feel better and seems to be stronger and more traditional i think

Paul

Having used all sorts of varieties of Cyano since they appeared in modelling circles in the (IIRC) late 80's, there is cyano, and there is cyano. Some of the cheap types are utter rubbish. I've used Grip, Flash, ZAP and a whole host of non branded stuff and return to ZAP every time. It may be pricey compared to some, but it's the best by far.

I used 3 main types for the majority of my building.......pink for tight fitting balsa to balsa jointed that can be assembled and have the CA wicked in. Green for well fitting joints where glue is applied to one face and the 2 parts brough together, and Slo ZAP where positioning time is required. One key point when using Cyano on ply is that some plys can have traces of a release agent on the outer faces from the manufacturing process........always try and give the faces of the ply a good course sand before bonding to remove the agent and roughen up the fibres to allow glue penetration.

For major load bearing joints, I use Loctite Hysol 9462.......on wood to wood joints as well as wood to composite, metal to wood etc etc. I rarely if ever use fast cure epoxy as I find these brittle. If I want an epoxy thats a little faster, ZAP 30 min or Devcon 2-Ton are OK, but I wouldn't rely on them for a major load bearing joint on a large model.

When sheeting wings, I use either good quality PVA wood glue or the foaming PU adhesives. I HATE aliphatic with a passion......useless stuff. I have recently renovated a model bought 2nd hand where there was a mismatch in the washout of the 2 traditional built up wing panels. I was able to remove the entire lower skin of one wing in 1 piece with very little damage to the ribs.....it just peeled away showing no glue penetration what so ever.

Phil

I love the Titebond woodglues especially for hardwoods much better than cyno, stronger than the wood itself they say! For wood to fibreglass/metal formers in fuselages etc there is only one choice hysol 9462.