Spraying camouflage

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Steve Mansell
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Spraying camouflage

Postby Steve Mansell » February 7th, 2019, 10:42 pm

Pfalz d.xii 1/4 scale.
Looking for advice. I don't have any spray equipment, and am using spray cans from Halfords. The subject I'm building has a "soft" transition from one colour to the next, rather than a clean sharp edge. How do I mask to get the same soft edge?
Cheers
Steve

John Greenfield
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Re: Spraying camouflage

Postby John Greenfield » February 8th, 2019, 8:15 am

Hi Steve
Use 3M soft edge masking foam Ref No 09678. It is available from car refinishers.

John

Steve Mansell
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Re: Spraying camouflage

Postby Steve Mansell » February 8th, 2019, 9:04 am

Thanks John, Amazon to the rescue!
Cheers

Stuart Solomon
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Re: Spraying camouflage

Postby Stuart Solomon » February 11th, 2019, 9:11 am

Or you could hold a thin card mask about an inch away from the surface which will leave a transition from one colour to the next ????

Bob Thompson1894
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Re: Spraying camouflage

Postby Bob Thompson1894 » February 11th, 2019, 3:10 pm

One way is to cut card shapes to the camo lines, then glue some strips of scrap balsa to the bottom, hold over the join, and spray. The gap formed by the balsa gives a soft edge.

Steve Mansell
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Re: Spraying camouflage

Postby Steve Mansell » February 11th, 2019, 6:44 pm

Thanks all, another new skill to learn!
If it comes out ok, I'll post a few piccies.
Cheers
Steve

Timothy Huff
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Re: Spraying camouflage

Postby Timothy Huff » March 10th, 2019, 9:25 pm

An airbrush would give you a lot more control than spray cans. I use a cheap one from Amazon, think I got two and a compressor for £100 or so which does just fine. You probably would want to go for an airbrush with a top paint reservoir, as the under-mounted jars are a fiddle, especially if painting a larger area.

Personally, using an airbrush, I'd approach the softening of lines a different way: Mark the areas, and paint with the lightest colour, then paint with the darker, using a high PSI setting on the airbrush. When ready to soften the border between the two, do so with the darker paint, and a much much lower PSI setting. This will result in a lot less paint being delivered and softening of the lines is easily achieved with a few minutes practice.

You can spend the earth on airbrushes, but it's not really necessary, and indeed I'd not advise it ab initio. Cleanliness of the equipment is absolutely essential with airbrushes. I strip and clean mine before and after every session. When you strip it, do so on a surface where dropped parts are easily seen, and recovered - I do mine in an old black plastic "ping-meal" tray, as there's a profusion of small parts and springs that will fly off never-to-be-seen again if you give them half a chance! An old toothbrush, some proper airbrush cleaning brushes, some fine grade wire-wool, plenty of good quality airbrush thinners and some paper towels are all you need, plus some you-tubing to learn the basics, prefereably practicing techniques off-model until you have it down pat.


Hope this helps.

Steve Mansell
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Re: Spraying camouflage

Postby Steve Mansell » March 11th, 2019, 12:41 am

Thanks Tim, airbrush is on my list of things to buy (and master!) On the building board at the moment is a 1/4 scale Pfalz d.xii and I've used the masking foam with good results on a test piece. The depth of the soft transition can be varied by the angle of the spray.
One advantage of an airbrush will be the ability to do German ww1 lozenge camouflage, as Glenn Torrance doesn't supply it anymore, and Solartex (lozengetex) is no longer available.

I'm enjoying following your build thread. Those gun mounts are truly works of a mad genius! Keep it up.

Cheers
Steve

Timothy Huff
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Re: Spraying camouflage

Postby Timothy Huff » March 11th, 2019, 10:58 pm

No problem. It's really a doddle with a little practice and some research beforehand. I forgot to mention that an airbriush compressor is 'de- rigeur', the canned propellant is very expensive and really only suitable for working on airfix type kits. The compressor must be able to have a tap arrangement for changing delivered pressure, so an ordinary workshop compressor may not be suitable.

As far as the turrets go, I've been painting parts all day myself, so can now assemble the electric ram and test that out (I'm expecting to have to redesign that completely, as whilst it works, there isn't, I fear, nearly enough torque for one ram to move the turret). Next build is the rear-turret doors and associated latch mechanism, and the rear cupola in the coming weeks. Pics etc to follow as that takes shape.


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