MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step Build

Why not share your information on your latest creation
Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 4th, 2015, 4:12 pm

This little fellow is of great help, its a "Tamiya P-47 PLASTIC KIT" But the level of detail is second to none so is of great help while I am working my way through this build

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Last edited by Dean Mosley on March 5th, 2015, 4:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 5th, 2015, 3:23 pm

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In the Dark

Bellow is an example of the quality and brightness of the LED;s from Braincube

With the garage light on


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Here is what I started with in terms of a landing light, this one is my trial and is painted silver in the centre

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Last edited by Dean Mosley on March 5th, 2015, 4:24 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 5th, 2015, 3:26 pm

Here is an old LED I had hanging around in the garage, perfect shape and size and realistic looks

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But look how bright it is..... : :roll:

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Bring in the answer.. 8-)

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Last edited by Dean Mosley on March 5th, 2015, 4:24 pm, edited 2 times in total.

Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 5th, 2015, 3:29 pm

In order to prevent myself having the same problems as some others have had with removing the tail wheel after construction a service hatch has been fitted over the tail wheel to allow access in the event of there being a problem at a later stage ;)

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the hatch is held in place by earth magnets and 2 x M3 Bolts which are concealed in the rear tail wheel bay :lol:

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Here is an old Krumshied Silence, Not currently in use I may add..... :|

It is for a 50cc size motor but it allows you to understand how the gasses move around in a good quality silencer and not to just fall out the other end

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If any of you have bothered to count you will see that this silencer has 5 chambers no wonder that they are so quiet and efficient.

Iv put this in as I had been discussing silencers with Phil Clark who had kindly offered to supply a system to fit this project, along with others who had given great detail for ones that they had previously manufactured for themselves from scratch.

As i have mentioned I am trying to achieve an acceptable sound for a war bird from a twin cylinder and achieve maximum power and performance from the engine...

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Last edited by Dean Mosley on March 7th, 2015, 11:20 am, edited 4 times in total.

Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 5th, 2015, 3:32 pm

Its still going on in my head in regards to constructing and building a silencer for my ZDZ 112cc twin :idea:

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I am now starting to shape the Exhaust Doors by laminating 0.8mm Ply and 1.5mm Balsa and holding in shape over my garage fire extinguisher to give it some body to the ply in addition the Ply is to add an element of strength as these will get bashed I'm sure in transit from time to time

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The skin has been removed from the fuselage but the Spar will be left in place

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Last edited by Dean Mosley on March 7th, 2015, 11:25 am, edited 3 times in total.

Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 5th, 2015, 3:35 pm

Firgelli Actuators... and Sliding Canopy's...

I have opted to fit a sliding Canopy to the P-47 I will be operating it with one of these little fellows 140mm of travel and operates just like a servo so can be plugged straight in to your receiver.

The L16-R is the big brother of our L12-R series and features a larger motor for increased force. These linear servos operate as a direct replacement for standard analog rotary servos. They use the same standard 3 wire connector, ground power and control. Regardless of how you drive your servos, be it with an RC receiver, an Arduino board, or a VEX micro-controller, the L16-R servo will function in place of a regular servo, but with the added benefit of providing linear motion. These hobby grade units are constructed using an anodized aluminum shaft, metal gearbox, steel screw and steel ball bearings. These actuators are built to last and look stylish on your models. The L16-R comes in 9 models: 3 stroke choices of 50mm, 100mm and 140mm, coupled with gear ratios of 35:1, 63:1 or 150:1 to give you a variety of speed and power options. All of our actuators come with a hardware kit for mounting included.
NOTE: The L16-R will not operate with Futaba receivers like the R6014FS that output 2.7 volts. You will need a Smart Fly Power Expander or Orbit Power Jack to bring the signal level up to 5vdc for the L16-R to operate.The L16-R is a 6vdc unit only


These came from John at Jetstream uk in Leeds again great service and support was given in relation to speed and torque selection.

266 Swinnow Lane, Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS13 4HP
Phone: 07947523270 - Email: jettstreamuk@gmail.com


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I'm looking at fitting this right up at the front which gives me just enough travel room but also makes it serviceable in the future. The unit is forward of the CG so this is a big plus lets see how it goes..... :)



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"And of course it will be fitted inside of the Fuselage not on the outside..." :shock:

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Last edited by Dean Mosley on March 7th, 2015, 4:34 pm, edited 3 times in total.

Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 5th, 2015, 3:37 pm

Side rails loosely placed while assessing the job

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As you can see the actuator comes with a very comprehensive fitting pack ;)

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Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 7th, 2015, 12:55 pm

Hi all I need your help again.....?

I have a 30cm Brass Canopy Rail which is as near as dam it is half the length of the Canopy.

In order for the Canopy to open, Realistically I'm going to need a 40cm rail "Is this Correct please :shock: "

If one of you has done this before and you can help I would be very grateful

Dean

Dave Osborne
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dave Osborne » March 7th, 2015, 8:03 pm

I would not be too concerned about the length of the channel in comparison to the length of the canopy. Its related to the amount of movement required. Purely from an engineering / support point of view if the canopy is 40 cm long but only opens 10cm the the maximum length of channel required is about 50cm. Of course if there are scale considerations then it might need to be adjusted to be scale in appearance.

cheers Dave.

Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 8th, 2015, 4:13 pm

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the response it partly goes along with my thinking,

My biggest query is whether or not I have to have the front and the rear Pinned/Held to the rails at both the front and back, or if its Pinned/Held at the leading edge of the Canopy and then Pinned/Held at a point past half way/two thirds on the Canopy.....

This means that when the Canopy is open there is no direct support but when closed will be in contact with the fuselage.

"Ok"

But would it flap in flight...?

It would of course be fully supported along the bottom edge of the Canopy and have a former in the front to offer support and form made from G-10 OR similar

Again please advise

Thanks

Dean

Phil Clark
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Phil Clark » March 8th, 2015, 10:22 pm

Last sliding canopy (though manually operated not off the TX) I did used slotted brass runners as you have but concentric solid brass rod as the inner. This was drilled & tapped and the canopy & moulded glass frame was bolted to this......the shank of the bolt running in the slots in the brass runner. The inner rod was just over the length of the sliding bit of canopy so gave decent support from to back.

The Razorback P-47 is a little different (to a Spit) as there is no visible runner set into the fuselage behind the rear of the canopy when it's shut, so you will have to come up with a shorter concealed runner & a very stiff canopy frame that only needs support on the front half as your runners need to be no longer than just over double the length the canopy opens so when fully open, the 'inner' section is just retained inside the outer runner. A stiff frame will also be vital if you want to drive the canopy with only 1 centrally mounted actuator.....any flex in the canopy and/or stiffness in the runners will cause the canopy to jam up and slop sliding. A less critical (but heavier & more complicated) solution is 1 actuator per runner

Phil

Phil Clark
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Phil Clark » March 8th, 2015, 10:23 pm

Sorry......forgot to add photo to last post.
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Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 11th, 2015, 3:59 pm

Thanks again Phil,

Just out of interest I assume that the spitfire canopy has been given a frame....?

If so did you do this or was that part of that particular kit..?

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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Phil Clark » March 12th, 2015, 8:59 pm

It was a Yellow Aircraft kit & came with a moulded glass canopy frame that was bonded on the outside of the clear glazing.

P

Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 14th, 2015, 8:30 am

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Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 14th, 2015, 11:22 am

Morning all,

Its been a busy week at work and not a lots been done, I did manage to get some building done though and I fitted the Actuator for the Sliding Canopy as you can see in the pictures above, but a great deal of my time has been spent scratching my head....

Why....?

Iv read and seen a great deal about how the sliding canopy rails should be fitted and how its critical that the Rails sit parallel to each other when is it is being driven by a single unit as mine is, the reasoning is obvious. (Square peg round hole :? )

So...!

If the rear of my Canopy/Fuselage, Rail is 155mm, and the front of my Canopy/Fuselage, Rail is 165mm and the drive Arm/Bar on Actuator is 175mm

Then how on earth can/do I set the Rails parallel when using Stiff Carbon Rod as many recommend....?

Or....

Do I use a slightly more practical approach, Set the rail in line with the Fuselage Sides so that it looks right and use a slightly more flexible material (Quote, Not Floppy) this however will/does work quite well.
To my mind as long as the canopy is held tight shut in flight what would be the problem...?

Its smooth, it seems reliable does any body see where the problem would lie...?

So what would I use.....?

Standard I/H Beam but laminated/adhered to a T Bar. The two sit well together as there is very little friction from the base of the T Bar and the fact that it is such a snug fit there is no slop in the whole train system. My greater concern is how to connect the T Beam to the Actuator Arm/Bar as they come together at a funny angle..

Anyway those are my wows for the week, Again if you have any suggestions or you have done this before I would love to hear from you,

Dean

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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby frank fearn » March 14th, 2015, 9:42 pm

Heres my old Ziroli P47 bubble canopy Dean, all done with sq section brass slotted to suit model railway track. A 2 inch piece of rail track was soldered to a brass plate of the same length and glued to the inside of the canopy, then the lip of the track sat into the slot in the sq section brass. The rear internal radi section was also brass sq "warmed up " and persuaded to suit the section I required then a brass plate soldered at either end which was pinned to the canopy. The middle rear rail was also slotted to suit the lip of the rail track and that is where the activator was fitted. Never failed , even after 80 or so flights.

I found this method best on both of these, dead strong and reliable.
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Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 18th, 2015, 1:05 pm

Well look what arrived on Monday of this week.....
:D

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The 1/5 Scale Full Ready Made Cockpit for the P-47 Plus Side panels, I just hope that I can do it justice....?

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The detail and quality is first class I have to say

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I WAS GUTTED BY ONE THING ........ :evil:

They Packed a P-51 Gun Sight and not a P-47.......AAAAAAA :twisted:

"How could you....?"
Last edited by Dean Mosley on March 18th, 2015, 1:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 18th, 2015, 1:08 pm

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Someone looks very pleased with his new acquisitions..... :lol:

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Last edited by Dean Mosley on March 18th, 2015, 1:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Dean Mosley
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Re: MEISTER Republic P-47D-22-RE Thunderbolt, Step by Step B

Postby Dean Mosley » March 18th, 2015, 1:12 pm

Oh... And these.....! :lol:

Looks like iv got my work cut out.....!

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Meisters New lower Cowl chin/Air Splitter "Much better now...." ;)

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