Klass Kote Primer

[Ron Pearman]

Has anyone else had a problem simulating flush rivets with a soldering iron with brass tube attachment into Klass Kote primer? I tried 12 and 25 watt irons, they wouldn't touch it. 50 watts does mark the surface but not in an acceptable way by any standard. While we're on to it I also had a problem with the panel lines and this primer before trying the rivets. I used the 1/64th tape from Fighteraces. When it came to remove the tape the vinyl part came off OK but leaving the adhesive behind in the groove. I had many happy (?) hours with cotton buds and white spirit cleaning the lines out (ask the wife !!!). In every other aspect the primer is excellent, drying fast and sanding both wet and dry very well. I guess I'll have to cut it all back and use another primer.
Isn't modelling fun? !!!!!!!

[Phil Clark]

Hi Ron

Cannot comment about the soldering iron technique into KK primer other than the fact a 25w iron should be ample. I only ever use celliulose primer and a 30w iron and never have an issue. How many coats of primer are down on the surface?

Panel tape........the reason the sticky residue is being left on the surface can be down to 2 things..............

1) The quantity of solvent used in the primer......if you thin the primer to the max amount creating a solvent rich mix, this 'can' sometmes cause this effect as the solven gets into the tape softening the adhesive and making it a little stringy (I've had it myself with highly thinned cellulose). White spirit on a cotton bud get sit out, as does rubbing a finger along the line as this makes the adhesive collect and form into little balls which you can roll off the surface very easily.

2) The length of time the tapes are left on for........best resuts are achieved by applying the tapes, spraying the primer immediately, and removing the tapes ASAP.......possible problem is the cure time of the KK, hence why I prefer the faster drying cellulose.

Phil (Fighteraces)

[Ron Pearman]

Thanks very much for the reply Phil. I think being an epoxy paint KK does not melt like cellulose when the iron is applied but sort of cracks with too much heat (50W). I'm out with the wet and dry this morning for phase two and cellulose primer !! Luckily I started on the fuselage and only have that to do.